Arnhem

Arnhem lies on the Nederrijn, the Dutch arm of the Rhine River, a few kilometres from the German border, where the river valley meets the wooded ridge of the Veluwe. Its origins date back to the Middle Ages, and it received city rights in the 13th century, but the city is known internationally for something that happened in a single week. In September 1944, in the Battle of Arnhem, British and Polish airborne troops landed near here during Operation Market Garden, a major Allied operation of World War II, hoping to seize the Rhine crossing. The John Frost Bridge, named after the British commander who led the defence at the northern end, replaced the original bridge, and it is a poignant symbol of courage and resilience. Arnhem’s war museums and memorials give moving insight into the events, and the Liberation Route links the city with other sites of the 1944 campaign.

Just west of the city, in Oosterbeek, the Airborne Museum at Hartenstein tells the story of the battle in a former hotel that served as British headquarters, and the Airborne cemetery nearby is a quiet place of remembrance. For many visitors this is the most affecting stop in the region, and it fits naturally into a day trip from Arnhem. Anyone interested in WWII history will want to allow several hours, and the war cemetery, with its rows of simple headstones, makes a fitting end to the visit.

Beyond its wartime legacy, Arnhem is also known for its green setting. The Netherlands Open Air Museum, the Nederlands Openluchtmuseum, is one of the country’s main cultural sites, with historic farmhouses, workshops, windmills and demonstrations of old crafts that bring Dutch history to life. Burgers’ Zoo is another major draw, known for its large themed habitats and conservation work, and Burgers’ Safari is a section of it where animals roam in a savannah-style landscape. Sonsbeek Park and Zypendaal Park offer shaded paths, ponds and lawns that locals use year-round.

The city centre is a lively mix of old and new. Historic churches stand near modern shopping streets and a busy cafe culture, and the Eusebiuskerk, rebuilt after wartime damage, rises over the old town. Museum Arnhem presents modern and contemporary art on a hilltop. The Modekwartier, or Fashion Quarter, is a creative district of designer studios, galleries and small shops that reflects Arnhem’s reputation for Dutch fashion and design, while the Musiskwartier, around the Musis Sacrum concert hall, offers theatres, music venues and nightlife.

Outdoor options are plentiful. The city is a gateway to the Veluwe, one of the Netherlands’ largest nature areas, with heath, forest and sand dunes suited to hiking, cycling and wildlife spotting, and the Hoge Veluwe National Park lies just to the north. The Gelderland countryside beyond holds castles, gardens and pretty villages. Arnhem is also the only Dutch city that still runs trolleybuses, a small detail that many visitors enjoy.

Getting to Arnhem is easy, with direct train connections from Amsterdam, Utrecht and other major Dutch cities, and the central station is a modern landmark in its own right. Public transport inside the city is efficient, and bike rental is widely available for reaching the parks and the riverside paths.

The best time to visit Arnhem is from May to September, when the weather is mild and the parks, open-air museums and riverside terraces are at their best. Spring brings blossom and festivals, while summer and early autumn offer long days. Mid-September is also the time of the annual commemorations of the battle, which draw many visitors.

Whether the interest is history, nature or the creative side of Dutch fashion and design, Arnhem makes a rewarding base in Gelderland.