Historic city walk

A historic city walk through Arnhem is a good way to understand a city that has been rebuilt more than once. Arnhem, the capital of the province of Gelderland, received city rights in 1233 and grew as a trading town on the Rhine, but much of its old centre was destroyed in the fighting of September 1944 and in the weeks that followed. The self-guided route of about four kilometres connects the surviving fragments of the old city with sites from that dramatic period, and it begins at the Eusebiuskerk, the main church.

The Eusebius Church is the natural starting point. It is a large Gothic building from the late Middle Ages, and its tall tower has become a symbol of Arnhem. The church was badly damaged during the battle and rebuilt after the war, and a lift in the tower takes visitors up to a viewing platform with a panorama over the city and the Rhine valley. The restored interior holds tombs and monuments, and the story of the church mirrors that of the city itself.

The route continues through the compact historic centre, past squares, narrow streets and small shops. The Korenmarkt and the streets around it have a lively mix of cafes and restaurants, and the Rhine embankment provides open views. Along the way you will see buildings from different periods, including medieval fragments, nineteenth-century villas and postwar reconstruction, which together give an impression of the layers of history. Information panels and a printed or digital route guide supply the stories behind the places.

Many sites relate to the Battle of Arnhem. The John Frost Bridge, named after the officer who held its northern end, lies at the edge of the route, and the city has memorials and plaques at places where fighting took place. The story of the civilian population, who were evacuated after the battle and returned to find their city devastated, is also told. For a fuller account of the military events, the Liberation Route is a natural companion.

Arnhem has other attractions that make it worth a longer stay, including Burgers' Zoo, the Dutch Open Air Museum and Museum Arnhem. The walk suits history lovers, photographers and anyone who wants a gentle introduction to the city. It can be completed in two hours, longer if you stop for coffee, and is best on a dry day.