What Dutch Winter Is Really Like
Winter in the Netherlands is usually mild, grey and damp rather than snowy. Daytime temperatures in December to February are typically a few degrees above freezing, and spells of frost or snow come and go. Natural-ice skating on canals happens only in cold years, and the famous Elfstedentocht skating race in Friesland has not been held since 1997.
Daylight is short: in December the sun rises around 8:45 and sets around 16:30 in Amsterdam. Plan walks for late morning and early afternoon, and carry a light in case you finish later than expected. The upside is quiet paths, low winter sun on the dunes and heath, and plenty of wildlife that is easier to spot once the leaves have fallen.
Coastal Dunes Near Amsterdam
The dunes between Haarlem and the North Sea are the most accessible winter walking from Amsterdam.
- Amsterdamse Waterleidingduinen: A dune area that also supplies Amsterdam's drinking water. Walks of roughly 4 to 9 km are signposted, and fallow deer are easy to see, often in groups. A day ticket is required and dogs are not allowed. In winter the pools and canals attract large numbers of waterbirds, so bring binoculars.
- Zuid-Kennemerland National Park: Larger and wilder, with dunes, woods and lakes. In the fenced Kraansvlak area a herd of European bison (wisent) lives, and a short route of about 3 km takes you through their range. Check current access rules before you go.
Both are easy to combine with a late lunch in Haarlem or a walk on the beach at Zandvoort or Bloemendaal.
Forests and Heath in the Veluwe
The Veluwe in Gelderland is the largest continuous forest and heath area in the Netherlands. In winter, the pine woods give shelter from the wind, and the open heath looks bronze in low sun.
Hoge Veluwe National Park, between Arnhem, Ede and Apeldoorn, is open all year. Free white bicycles are available at the entrances, and the Kröller-Müller Museum inside the park makes a good indoor stop on a cold day. Outside the national park, forest areas around towns such as Elspeet and Ugchelen have marked walking routes managed by Natuurmonumenten, Staatsbosbeheer and local estates. Red deer and wild boar live throughout the Veluwe; you are most likely to see them at dawn and dusk.
Other Good Winter Walks
- Schoorlse Duinen (North Holland): Among the widest and highest dunes in the country, with more than 60 km of paths and marked routes from 5 to 23 km.
- Montferland (Gelderland): A wooded hill area near the German border around Zeddam and 's-Heerenberg, with walks through beech woods.
- Utrechtse Heuvelrug: A ridge of wooded hills east of Utrecht with many marked routes from towns such as Driebergen and Amerongen.
- Wadden coast: In clear frosty weather the dikes of Friesland and Groningen give wide views over the mudflats, though the wind can be fierce.
Dressing for a Dutch Winter Walk
Wind and damp make Dutch winter feel colder than the thermometer suggests. Dress in layers: a thermal or wool base layer, a fleece or jumper, and a windproof, waterproof jacket. Waterproof boots matter more than heavy insulation, since forest paths and dune tracks are often muddy. Add a hat and gloves, and pack a flask of something hot for longer routes.
Warming Up Afterwards
The Dutch have a word for the comfortable, sociable feeling that follows a cold walk: gezellig. You find it in a bruin café (brown café), a traditional pub with dark wood and low lights, or in the roadside cafés and pancake houses at the edge of many nature areas.
Typical winter orders include:
- Erwtensoep (snert): Thick split-pea soup with sausage, usually served with rye bread and bacon.
- Warme chocolademelk: Hot chocolate, often with a dollop of whipped cream.
- Appeltaart: Apple pie, best with whipped cream.
- Stamppot: Mashed potato mixed with kale (boerenkool) or sauerkraut, served with smoked sausage.
Choosing a Base
For a weekend, pick a base close to the walking rather than in a big city. Haarlem works for the dunes; Arnhem, Apeldoorn or Ede for the Veluwe; and small hotels and B&Bs in forest villages put you within walking distance of the trails. Winter is low season outside the Christmas holidays, so rates are often lower and booking at short notice is easier.
