Sint Cunerakerk

The Sint Cunerakerk, or Church of Saint Cunera, is the great landmark of Rhenen, a town in the province of Utrecht on the Lower Rhine. Its tower is among the most striking late Gothic towers in the country, built between the 1490s and the early 1530s and rising more than a hundred metres above the surrounding roofs and trees. The tower can be seen from far along the river valley, and it is one of the first things travellers notice when they approach the town.

The church is named after Saint Cunera, a figure from medieval legend who is said to have come to the Rhine region and been murdered in Rhenen. According to the story, she was a follower of Saint Ursula and was killed on the orders of a local queen, and miracles were later reported at her tomb. The cult of Cunera attracted pilgrims to the town in the Middle Ages, and it helped to finance the building of the large church and its tower. Her story is still told in Rhenen, and the church preserves traditions connected with her.

The building has a turbulent modern history. In May 1940 Rhenen was at the centre of the fighting on the Grebbeberg, when Dutch forces held the line against the German invasion for several days. The town was badly damaged, and the church was struck and burned. After the war, the building was restored, and the tower, which had been seriously damaged, was rebuilt, so that today's structure is a mix of medieval and later work. The restoration is a reminder of the town's endurance.

Inside, the church is large and airy, with the typical Dutch Reformed combination of Gothic architecture and plain interior. Stained glass windows, memorials and a carillon add interest, and the acoustics make it a venue for concerts. The tower can often be climbed in the season, and the view over the Rhine valley and the wooded Heuvelrug is the reward for the many steps.

The church is close to Ouwehands Zoo, the Grebbeberg War Cemetery and the river. It suits those interested in architecture, history and local legends, and it can be combined with a walk along the Rhine. Check opening hours and tower tours before you go. Stepping out of the church, the Utrechtse Heuvelrug rises behind the town, and Rhenen’s old streets lead down to the river.