Grebbeberg War Cemetery

The Grebbeberg War Cemetery lies on the wooded slope of the Grebbeberg, a hill above the Nederrijn near Rhenen in the province of Utrecht. It is one of the Netherlands' national military cemeteries and it holds many of the Dutch soldiers who died in the fighting here in May 1940, when German forces invaded the country. The visit is a quiet one, and it is best made with some knowledge of what happened on this hill.

The Grebbeberg was a key point in the Dutch defences. The Grebbe line, a fortified line of defence in the centre of the country, ran along the foot of the Veluwe, and the hill commanded the approach from the east and the crossing of the river. The attack on the Grebbeberg began on 10 May 1940, the first day of the German invasion, and after three days of fierce fighting, including counterattacks by Dutch troops, the line was broken on 13 May. The Netherlands capitulated two days later, after the bombing of Rotterdam. The soldiers buried here were mostly young conscripts, and the battle is one of the best known episodes of the short campaign.

The cemetery is laid out with rows of simple white headstones across the lawns, each with the name of a soldier, and some graves are marked for unidentified dead. The entrance carries the inscription Den Vaderlant Ghetrouwe, a line from the Wilhelmus, the national anthem, that expresses loyalty to the fatherland. There are memorials and commemorations are held here each year around 4 and 5 May, the days of remembrance and liberation. Information panels and a visitor centre nearby tell the story of the battle, and the grounds are open to the public throughout the year.

The setting is calm and wooded, and visitors are expected to behave quietly and respectfully. The surrounding Grebbeberg has paths for walking, with views over the river valley, and the town of Rhenen is a short distance away. Rhenen has the Sint Cunerakerk, the large late medieval church whose tower dominates the town, and Ouwehands Zoo, a well known zoo with a large collection of animals, which makes a contrast with the solemn cemetery. The nature area of Kwintelooyen and the Rhine, the Nederrijn, are also close.

The cemetery suits visitors interested in Dutch history, the Second World War and remembrance, and people who value a quiet place for reflection. Allow about an hour, and consider combining it with the visitor centre and a walk on the hill.