Two Very Different Cities
Amsterdam and The Hague are both in the Randstad, the urban belt of the western Netherlands, and are about 50 minutes apart by direct train. They feel quite different. Amsterdam is the capital, a dense canal city and the country's main tourist destination. The Hague (Den Haag) is the seat of the Dutch government and home to the King's working palace and many international organisations, with wide streets, green neighbourhoods and its own stretch of North Sea beach at Scheveningen.
Amsterdam has around 930,000 inhabitants; The Hague has around 560,000. Both are easy to explore on foot, by tram or by bike.
Sights and Museums
Amsterdam has the heavyweight collections: the Rijksmuseum, with Rembrandt's Night Watch and Vermeer's The Milkmaid; the Van Gogh Museum; the Stedelijk for modern art; and the Anne Frank House. Its 17th-century canal ring is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is the main sight in itself.
The Hague has smaller but outstanding museums. The Mauritshuis holds Vermeer's Girl with a Pearl Earring and View of Delft and Fabritius's The Goldfinch. Kunstmuseum Den Haag has the world's largest Mondrian collection, including Victory Boogie Woogie. Escher in Het Paleis, on the Lange Voorhout, is devoted to M.C. Escher. The Peace Palace houses the International Court of Justice and has a visitor centre.
Politics and the Binnenhof
The Binnenhof, the medieval complex in central The Hague that has been the home of the Dutch parliament for centuries, is undergoing a long renovation. While the work continues, the House of Representatives meets in a temporary building on the Bezuidenhoutseweg near Den Haag Centraal station. ProDemos runs guided visits of the temporary parliament; tickets and registration are needed in advance. You can still walk past the Binnenhof and the Hofvijver pond, though parts of the complex are behind construction fencing.
Beach or Canals
This is the clearest difference. Amsterdam's appeal is its canals, narrow streets, houseboats and busy squares. The Hague has a long sandy coastline within the city limits. Tram 9 runs from Den Haag Centraal to Scheveningen in about 20 minutes, where you find the pier, the Kurhaus hotel, beach pavilions in season and a long promenade. Quieter beaches lie at Zuiderstrand and Kijkduin to the south.
Amsterdam has no beach of its own; the nearest is at Zandvoort, about 30 minutes by train from Amsterdam Centraal.
Crowds, Atmosphere and Cost
Amsterdam's centre is very busy for much of the year, especially in the canal belt and around Dam Square, and the city has actively tried to manage visitor numbers. Hotels are generally more expensive than elsewhere in the country, and Amsterdam levies one of the highest tourist taxes in Europe on overnight stays.
The Hague is calmer and more residential. Evenings in the centre are lively around the Plein and Grote Markt, but the city feels less given over to tourism. Accommodation is usually cheaper than in Amsterdam for a similar standard, though rates rise in summer near the beach.
Getting There and Getting Around
Direct Intercity trains link Amsterdam Centraal and Den Haag Centraal in about 50 minutes. From Schiphol Airport, direct trains reach The Hague in about 30 minutes and Amsterdam Centraal in about 15 minutes. In both cities you can pay for trams and buses by tapping a contactless bank card in and out.
The Hague is also a good base for day trips to Delft, about 15 minutes away by train or tram, and Leiden and Rotterdam, each within about 30 minutes.
Which Should You Choose?
- Choose Amsterdam for a first visit focused on major museums, canals and nightlife, and if you want the classic Dutch city experience.
- Choose The Hague for a calmer base, Dutch Golden Age art without the queues, a beach in summer, and easy access to Delft, Leiden and Rotterdam.
- Combine them: The cities are close enough to stay in one and visit the other for a day. Many visitors stay in Amsterdam and take a day trip to The Hague and Delft, or do the reverse to avoid Amsterdam's hotel prices.
