Lauwersmeer Dike and Harbor

The Lauwersmeer lies in the far north of the Netherlands, where the provinces of Groningen and Friesland meet the Wadden Sea. It was once an arm of the sea, the Lauwerszee, an open bay with tides, mudflats and salt marshes. In 1969 a dam, the Lauwersmeerdijk, was built across its mouth to shorten the coastline and protect the surrounding land after the great storm flood of 1953, and the enclosed water gradually turned fresh. The dam changed the landscape completely, creating a lake and a mosaic of new land, reed beds and marshes, much of which is now a national park.

The dike is more than a piece of engineering. Along its top, a road and a cycle path run for several kilometres, and the view is wide on both sides. On one side lies the Lauwersmeer, calm and shining in good weather, with birds on the water and reed beds along the edge, and on the other lies the Wadden Sea, with its tidal flats, gullies and the distant line of the islands. The contrast between the fresh, still lake and the salt, restless sea is the most striking feature, and the wind is almost always present.

At the northern end lies the harbour of Lauwersoog, a working port and a departure point. Fishing boats unload their catch here, shrimp cutters and pleasure craft moor along the quays, and ferries run from the harbour to Schiermonnikoog, the smallest of the inhabited Wadden Islands. Cafes and fish stalls along the harbour sell fresh fish, shrimp and smoked eel, and a seal rescue and visitor centre stands nearby. The harbour has a busy, salty atmosphere, and a good place to spend an hour is on a bench watching the boats.

The area is outstanding for birds. In spring and autumn, vast numbers of geese, ducks and waders pass through or spend the winter, and spoonbills and other rare species can be seen. The Lauwersmeer is also recognised as a Dark Sky Park, a place where artificial light is limited, so the night sky is spectacular on clear nights, and observation towers give views across the marshes. Walking and cycling routes cover the park.

The dike and harbour suit birdwatchers, cyclists, families and anyone who enjoys wide landscapes. Allow a couple of hours for a visit, and combine it with a boat trip to the island or a walk in the national park. Dress for wind and bring binoculars.