Thorn's white-painted buildings

Thorn is a small town in the Dutch province of Limburg, near the border with Belgium and not far from the Maas, and it is known across the country as the white town. Houses in its old centre are whitewashed, and the effect of rows of gleaming facades along cobbled lanes, with red tiled roofs and dark shutters, makes it one of the most photogenic spots in the south of the Netherlands. The cluster of white buildings is surrounded by greenery, and the contrast with the brick towns elsewhere is striking.

Two stories are told about the white paint. The best known is that the whitewashing began in the late eighteenth century, after the French took control of the region and introduced a tax based on the number of windows in a house, so that residents bricked up windows to pay less and painted over the patches to hide them. Another explanation is more practical, that lime wash was a cheap way to protect and brighten old brickwork. Whatever the truth, the town has kept the tradition, and the white colour is now part of its identity and protected as part of the character of the old centre.

The history of Thorn goes back to a religious foundation. Around the year 1000, an abbey for noblewomen was established here, and over the centuries it developed into a small independent territory ruled by a princess-abbess, with its own laws and court. The ladies who led it were from noble families and held considerable power, which makes Thorn unusual among European towns. The territory survived until the end of the eighteenth century, when the French occupation swept away such ecclesiastical states. Several fine houses that belonged to canonesses and officials remain.

The Abbey Church of St. Michael, the Sint-Michaëlskerk, dominates the town. It combines a Romanesque western part with later Gothic and baroque elements, and the interior is richly decorated. It is open to visitors at certain times, and a museum associated with the abbey and a municipal museum, the Land of Thorn, add detail on local history. A small chapel under the lime trees is another quiet landmark.

The town is compact, and a walk around takes an hour or two. It suits history lovers, photographers, cyclists exploring the Maas valley and families. Cafes and shops are small and friendly. Check opening times for the museums and the church, and visit outside peak weekend times if you want quiet streets.