The Broken Jug

Harlingen is a harbour town on the Wadden Sea in the north-west of Friesland, with a long maritime history and a centre of gabled merchant houses, canals and quays. Ferries run from here to the islands of Terschelling and Vlieland, and the harbour is busy with sailing ships, fishing boats and pleasure craft. The Broken Jug is a modern sculpture associated with the entrance to the town, in the area of the Tjerk Hiddessluizen locks, a modern landmark set against an old port. The details of its creator and its lighting are hard to confirm, so they are best checked on the spot, and the surroundings are the surer guide.

The locks are named after Tjerk Hiddes de Vries, a Frisian naval hero of the seventeenth century, and they form part of the water system that links the harbour with canals inland. Approaching the town from the road, visitors pass an area of water and moorings before reaching the historic centre. Modern public art at an entrance of this kind works as a sign of arrival, giving a first impression of a town that values both heritage and contemporary design.

Once inside the centre, there is plenty to see. The old harbour with its warehouses and the Noorderhaven is the centre of the town's life, and the Hannemahuis Museum shows the story of Harlingen in an eighteenth-century house, with collections of local history, art and decorative arts. The lighthouse stands near the harbour entrance and is a landmark for ships, and the Willem Barentsz expedition ship, a replica of the vessel associated with the Arctic voyages of the sixteenth century, is moored in the harbour. Willem Barentsz himself came from the island of Terschelling, which is a ferry ride away.

The town also has a working port with shipping connected to the Wadden Sea, and it is a base for sailing trips on the old Zuiderzee ships. The surrounding polders are flat and open, with sheep and dykes, and the coast offers walks along the sea wall and views of migrating birds.

A stop at the sculpture suits art lovers curious about public art and travellers arriving by car or bike, since it lies near parking. It takes only a few minutes, but the real reward is the town beyond, which can fill an afternoon. Check local information for details on the work itself, as its story is the part least certain.