Stenen beer

Veere is a small, well-preserved town on the shore of the Veerse Meer, a lake in the middle of Zeeland on the island of Walcheren. It is one of the most picturesque places in the province, with a harbour, a Gothic town hall, narrow streets and old merchants' houses, and it has the look of a place that was once much grander than it is now. In the sixteenth century Veere was a prosperous port, a centre of trade with Scotland, and the town enjoyed privileges that made it rich. Its defences and harbour works were built on the same scale.

The Stenen Beer belongs to that maritime landscape. The Dutch word beer can mean a pier, breakwater or groyne in Zeeland, and the name Stenen Beer points to a stone structure of that kind at the waterfront, built to protect the harbour or the shore from the force of water. A stone breakwater of this kind has to withstand waves, ice and tides, and the solid masonry shows the effort that went into making the town safe. Because the details of the structure's history are hard to confirm, it is best to treat it as one of the traces of Veere's relationship with the water and to check local information on site.

The larger story of Veere is easier to follow. Scottish merchants held staple rights here from the sixteenth century, which meant that Scottish wool and other goods had to pass through the town, and Scottish houses still stand in the centre. The Campveerse Tower, a massive defensive tower at the harbour, is one of the town's most recognisable landmarks and can be seen from across the water. The Gothic town hall, with its tower and statues, and the great but unfinished church of Our Lady, whose bulk dominates the roofs, show how rich the town once was.

The waterfront is pleasant for walking. Boats are moored along the harbour, the Veerse Meer opens beyond it with its sailing boats and windsurfers, and the dyke offers wide views. Cafes and restaurants offer fish and local specialities, and in summer the terraces are crowded.

The place suits history lovers, photographers, sailors and families. A walk around the harbour and the old centre takes an hour or two. Veere is reached by bus from Middelburg, and it works well in combination with a trip to the beach or a bike ride along the lake. Check any access information locally.