Canals of Utrecht

The canals of Utrecht are unlike those of any other Dutch city, because the quays on either side sit at two levels. Along the Oudegracht, the old canal that runs through the middle of the city, there is a street at the top level and a lower wharf at the level of the water. The wharves were built in the Middle Ages so that goods could be unloaded from boats directly into cellars beneath the street, and the vaulted cellar spaces behind them were used for storage. Today many of those cellars have been converted into restaurants, cafes and shops, and the wharf terraces are among the most pleasant places to sit in the city.

The Oudegracht is the main canal, and it follows what was once a branch of the Rhine. It runs roughly north to south through the old centre, and the Nieuwegracht, a younger canal, curves along the eastern edge of the medieval city, lined with elegant houses and gardens. Together they give Utrecht a sense of layered history, from the Roman fort and medieval church city to the modern centre with its university and busy railway station, the busiest in the Netherlands.

A walk along the canal is easiest in the area between the Dom Tower and the Weesp bridges, where the wharves are most lively. The Domtoren, the tall bell tower of the cathedral, is the city's landmark and can be climbed for a view across the rooftops. Around it are the Dom church, the Janskerk, the Museum Catharijneconvent, which shows religious art, and the Centraal Museum. From the canal you can see how these buildings fit together, with towers rising behind the gabled houses.

Boat trips on the canals offer another way to see the city. They pass beneath the low bridges and past the wharf cellars, and the commentary explains the history of the city and its waterways. Small rowing boats and canoes can be rented in some places for a more active way to explore, and during warm weather the water is busy with people.

The canals are a good setting for a relaxed day, whether you want to eat, shop or simply watch the water. The area is lively in the evenings, especially in summer, with outdoor terraces filling up. The wharves can be slippery after rain, and the lowest levels can be affected by high water, so take care and watch the weather. Unlike the Amsterdam canal belt, which was a planned ring, Utrecht’s waterways grew organically. Strolling along the Old Canal, known in Dutch as the Oudegracht, and the New Canal, the Nieuwegracht, shows the contrast. Many visitors rate the evening light on the water as the best moment of the day.