Cathedral Square

Domplein, Cathedral Square, is the historic centre of Utrecht, and it is one of the most evocative spaces in the Netherlands. In the Roman period there was a fort here, called Traiectum, on a crossing of the Rhine, and the remains of its walls lie under the paving. Later the place became the seat of a bishop, and from the early Middle Ages Utrecht was the religious capital of the northern Low Countries. The cathedral built here, dedicated to Saint Martin, was the greatest church in the country, and the square is the former precinct of that complex.

Two great buildings face each other across the square. The Dom Tower, built in the fourteenth century, is the tallest church tower in the Netherlands, rising to more than a hundred metres, and it dominates the skyline of Utrecht. It can be climbed on a guided tour, with a view over the city and the countryside from the top, and its carillon rings over the roofs. The Domkerk, the cathedral, is a Gothic church with a choir and transept but no nave. In 1674 a storm, probably a tornado, tore down the nave, and it was never rebuilt. The result is that the tower stands apart from the church, and the open ground between them forms part of the square itself.

That gap gives Domplein its unusual character. Markings in the paving show where the nave once stood, so that walkers can follow the outline of the lost building and imagine its size. The space is used for gatherings, markets, concerts and informal sitting, and on a sunny day students and locals sit on the benches and on the steps. The old university building, with its grand hall, stands on one side, and the cloister garden, the Pandhof, is a quiet retreat beside the church.

Inside the Domkerk, the high choir and the tall windows convey the scale of the medieval building. The church has been a Protestant church since the Reformation and is simply decorated, and entry is generally free, with donations welcome. It hosts concerts, services and organ recitals, and a cafe and shop are on the square.

Domplein is the natural starting point for exploring Utrecht. The canals with their wharf cellars, the Centraal Museum and the Museum Catharijneconvent are all within a short walk. The square suits history and architecture lovers, families and anyone wanting to feel the age of the city. A visit takes half an hour, longer with a tower climb. Check the opening times of the church and the tower.