The Netherlands is not the first country that comes to mind for wine, but it has a small and growing wine industry. Wikipedia counts around 180 commercial vineyards, concentrated mainly in Limburg and Gelderland. Most Dutch wine is white or sparkling, made from grapes suited to a cool, damp climate, and much of it is sold directly at the vineyard. That makes a vineyard visit the best way to taste it.
A Short History
Grapes may have been grown around Maastricht in Roman times, and there are medieval references to viticulture in the region. Modern commercial wine production only began in the 1970s, and it has expanded significantly since then as warmer summers and new grape varieties have made ripening more reliable.
Protected Designations
A few Dutch wine areas have protected designation of origin (PDO, in Dutch BOB) status under EU rules, which means all the grapes must come from the defined area and meet its production rules:
- Mergelland in South Limburg, recognised in 2018. According to Visit Maastricht, only vineyards on loess soil may use the label, and the vineyards lie between roughly 49 and 322 metres above sea level. Fresh, fruity white wine is typical.
- Maasvallei Limburg, approved by the European Commission in 2017, is a cross-border designation shared with Belgian Limburg, covering vineyards along the Maas river. Gravel soils deposited by the river are said to give the wines a mineral character.
- Oolde, a small designation in the municipality of Lochem in Gelderland, was added to the EU register in 2018.
Plenty of good Dutch wine is sold without any designation, so a PDO label is a marker of origin rather than a guarantee of quality.
Grapes and Styles
Dutch growers use a mix of classic European varieties and newer fungus-resistant hybrids that cope with the damp climate. Commonly seen whites include Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Auxerrois, Riesling, Müller-Thurgau, Johanniter, Solaris and Souvignier Gris. Reds include Pinot Noir, Regent and Rondo. Sparkling wines made by the traditional method are a strength of several producers, because the cool climate preserves acidity. Dutch reds tend to be light; full-bodied styles such as Cabernet Sauvignon are rarely planted because the climate is too cool. Expect crisp acidity, moderate alcohol and fresh fruit flavours rather than richness, which makes many Dutch whites and sparkling wines good partners for fish, cheese and asparagus.
Visiting Vineyards in Limburg
South Limburg is the most developed wine-tourism area, with rolling hills unusual for the Netherlands and several vineyards close to Maastricht. Visit Maastricht lists, among others:
- Apostelhoeve in the Jeker valley near Maastricht, which grows seven varieties on about 20 hectares and offers guided tours with tastings.
- Wine walks and bike tours around Maastricht, including a signposted wine route through the surrounding countryside.
- Routes des Vins, signposted wine routes through South Limburg managed by Visit Zuid-Limburg.
Some vineyards also have a terrace or restaurant, but many are working farms with a small shop, so check what is offered before you set off. Combining a vineyard visit with a stay in Maastricht or Valkenburg is the easiest way to plan a Limburg wine day, as the vineyards are within cycling distance of town.
Visiting Vineyards in Gelderland
Gelderland, especially the river landscape of the Betuwe and the Achterhoek in the east, has the other main concentration of vineyards. Many are family businesses with a shop and occasional tours. The landscape is flatter than Limburg, which makes cycling between vineyards and orchards easy. Opening days vary widely, and many smaller producers only open by appointment. Arnhem and Nijmegen are convenient bases with good train connections, and regional tourism sites list vineyards that welcome visitors. Because the area is also known for fruit growing, a cycling day can combine a vineyard tasting with orchards and farm shops, especially in spring blossom season and at harvest time.
How to Arrange a Tasting
- Book ahead. Small vineyards often have limited opening days, and tours fill up in summer and around harvest.
- Check the website for current tours and prices. Formats range from a simple shop tasting to guided walks through the vines.
- Visit in late summer or autumn to see grapes on the vines and harvest activity, usually from September into October depending on the year and variety.
- Do not drive after tasting. Use a designated driver, a bike or public transport; the Netherlands enforces drink-driving limits strictly.
- Buy at the door. Many Dutch wines are produced in small quantities and are hard to find in shops, so the vineyard is often the best place to buy.
