St. Bavokerk (Grote Kerk) Church

St. Bavokerk, usually called the Grote Kerk, dominates the Grote Markt in the centre of Haarlem, the capital of North Holland. It is a late Gothic church built mainly between the fourteenth and sixteenth centuries, and its tall tower with a bulbous spire is the focal point of the old centre. The church is dedicated to Saint Bavo, the patron saint of the city. After the Reformation it became a Protestant church, and it has been used as one ever since, which accounts for its bright, whitewashed interior and the absence of altars and statues.

The size of the interior is the first surprise. A very wide nave, high vaults and a long choir give an impression of space and calm, and the light that falls from the tall windows brings out the lines of the arches. This was a favourite subject for Dutch painters of the Golden Age, and Pieter Saenredam made a series of famous paintings of the interior, in which the architecture appears almost as pure geometry. Seeing the real space after seeing the paintings is a pleasure.

The church is known above all for its Müller organ, built in the eighteenth century and long counted among the most famous instruments in the world. It is a monumental piece, richly decorated and splendid in sound, and the young Mozart is known to have played it in 1766 during a tour of the Netherlands. Concerts are held regularly, so a visit may coincide with a performance. The choir floor is covered with gravestones, and the painter Frans Hals is buried here. Floor slabs and memorials tell the story of the city's notable families.

A visit usually involves entering through a shop, paying a modest entrance fee and exploring at your own pace, with information panels and sometimes guided tours. Check the opening hours, as services and concerts can alter them. The tower is not always accessible.

The Grote Markt itself is an attractive square, with the statue of Laurens Janszoon Coster, who is honoured by some Dutch as the inventor of printing, and the old town hall. Other sights nearby include the Frans Hals Museum, Teylers Museum, the oldest museum in the country, and the Corrie ten Boom house. The church suits history lovers, music lovers and painters' admirers. Allow an hour for the interior, and more for a concert.