Oudezijls Haven

Alkmaar is a town of canals, and the harbour and canal basins of its old centre give a good introduction to them. The town lies in North Holland, not far from the dunes of the North Sea coast, and the North Holland Canal, opened in 1824, links it with Den Helder to the north and Amsterdam to the south. The canals of the old town are among its main charms, and they reward a slow stroll away from the crowds of the cheese market.

Alkmaar's canals developed as part of its defences and its trade. In the Middle Ages the town was protected by walls and moats, and the waterways served as routes for boats carrying goods in from the surrounding countryside. Later, when the walls were removed, the moats were turned into canals and parks, and the ring of water around the centre remains. Among the best-known stretches are the Verdronkenoord, a picturesque canal lined with old houses and trees, the Luttik Oudorp, which leads to the quiet northern part of the old town, and the Mient. Together they give Alkmaar a network of green and watery places that contrast with the busy streets around the market.

The town's history includes a famous episode of resistance. In 1573, during the Dutch revolt, Alkmaar was besieged by a Spanish army, and the citizens held out until the besiegers withdrew after the dikes were opened and the surrounding land flooded. The victory was a turning point in the early part of the war, and it is celebrated every year on the third of October. The canals and the water that helped to save the town are part of that story.

Today, a walk or boat trip along the canals shows the town at its best. Canal boats run in the season, passing under bridges and past gabled houses, windmills and the backs of buildings. The Waag, where the cheese market is held, the Stadhuis, the Drommedaris tower and the Grote Kerk are all close. The De Hoop mill, on the edge of the centre, adds a rural note.

The canals suit walkers, photographers and visitors who like quiet water. Spend an hour on foot or take a boat, and combine it with the cheese market on Friday mornings in season. Ask at the tourist office for the best route.