Oudegracht

The Oudegracht is the old canal that winds through the centre of Utrecht, and it is the city's best known feature. Dug in the twelfth century, partly by straightening an old arm of the Rhine, it became the main street of the medieval city, and merchants and brewers built their warehouses along it. What makes it unusual is its construction: the canal is lined with two levels of quay, an upper street at the level of the town and a lower wharf at the level of the water, and the wharf cellars beneath the street were used as storerooms, which could be reached directly from boats.

Today, these old cellars have been turned into shops, cafes, restaurants and terraces, and the lower wharf is a pleasant place to sit beside the water, below the bustle of the street. The upper quays are lined with gabled buildings, many of them from the seventeenth century and some with older parts that date back to the medieval period, and the whole scene is reflected in the canal, particularly on a calm day. Bridges cross the canal at frequent intervals, and the view from the middle of one, looking down the long line of buildings, is among the most photographed in the city.

The canal is a natural route for exploring the centre. Walking along it takes you from the Dom Tower, the tallest church tower in the Netherlands at 112 metres, towards the more bohemian streets of the northern end, and boat tours show the buildings from the water. In summer, there are concerts on the water and festivals along the quays, and the terraces are busy. A suggested time is between one and three hours, though you can easily spend longer. Utrecht is also the home city of the illustrator Dick Bruna, the creator of Miffy, and there are small tributes to the rabbit around the centre, with a museum at the Centraal Museum.

The canal is close to many other sights. The Domkerk, the Janskerk, Museum Catharijneconvent, Museum Speelklok and the Centraal Museum are all within a short walk, and Neude and the Ledig Erf, the cathedral square and the Canals of Utrecht make up the rest of the old centre. The famous Kasteel de Haar, a castle with a fairy-tale appearance, lies a short trip from the city, and Utrecht Centraal is the busiest station in the country.

The Oudegracht suits all visitors, in every season. It is free, open at all times and best seen in the late afternoon, when the light warms the brick.