Oude Kerk

The Oude Kerk, the Old Church, is the oldest surviving building in Amsterdam, and it stands in a place that surprises many visitors, in the middle of the Red Light District, with windows of the neighbourhood's trade facing its walls across a small square. It was founded in the early thirteenth century as a modest wooden chapel, on a sandy rise beside the Amstel, and was consecrated in 1306 and dedicated to Saint Nicholas, the patron saint of sailors and merchants. It grew over the following centuries, with aisles, chapels and a tower being added, until it became a large Gothic hall church. The brick tower, with its spire and carillon, is a familiar sight above the roofs of the old centre.

In the sixteenth century the Reformation changed the church for ever. In 1578, when Amsterdam switched sides and joined the Protestant cause, the building was taken over by the Reformed church, and the altars, statues and paintings were removed or destroyed, leaving the plain, bright space that visitors see today. The structure itself was little altered. High above, the great wooden vault of the nave survives from the Middle Ages, and it is often described as the largest medieval wooden vault in Europe, painted with remains of old decoration. The stained-glass windows, some of them modern, throw coloured light across the stone floor.

The floor is one of the church's most moving features. It is paved with some two thousand gravestones, which cover the burials of thousands of Amsterdammers over several centuries, since for a long time it was common to be buried inside the church. Among them is the grave of Saskia Uylenburgh, the wife of the painter Rembrandt, who died in 1642. The church also has several organs, including a fine eighteenth-century instrument, which are used for concerts, and the sound in the high space is impressive.

The Oude Kerk is not only a historic monument but also an active centre for contemporary art. It hosts exhibitions and installations, often by artists who respond to the building and to its surroundings, and which add another layer to the space. Visitors can also explore the old chapels and rooms, and an audio guide is available. The tower can be climbed in season on a guided tour, and gives a view over the roofs of the old town.

Opening hours vary, with shorter hours on Sundays, and entry is charged, so check before going. The church suits history lovers, art lovers and those who like to see contrasts. A visit takes about an hour.