NDSM Wharf

NDSM is a former shipyard on the northern bank of the IJ, in the district called Amsterdam Noord, and it is one of the most distinctive places in the city. The initials stand for Nederlandsche Dok en Scheepsbouw Maatschappij, the Netherlands Dock and Shipbuilding Company, which built large ships here for much of the twentieth century. At its peak the yard was a vast industrial complex with huge sheds, slipways and cranes, employing thousands of workers. Its decline began in the 1970s as shipbuilding in Europe lost out to cheaper competition, and it closed in the 1980s, leaving a very large empty site.

What happened next was unusual. Instead of being demolished and redeveloped by property companies, the abandoned site was taken over by artists, squatters and creative people, who found its enormous halls ideal for studios, workshops and performance spaces. In the late 1990s, the city agreed to a scheme in which the artists were allowed to manage the site and develop it as a cultural centre, with an emphasis on freedom and experiment. The area has since become a hub for creative businesses, art studios, music venues, restaurants and festivals, while keeping the raw industrial look of its past.

The buildings are the attraction. A huge shed that once housed ships under construction now contains workshops and studios, and the cranes still stand over the quay, one of them converted into a hotel. A museum of street art, called STRAAT, occupies a huge warehouse and shows large works by graffiti and street artists from around the world. Cafes and restaurants, some in converted buildings and others in temporary structures, line the waterfront, and in summer the terraces face the river with views towards the city. A monthly flea market held in one of the sheds is among the biggest in Europe, and concerts and festivals fill the calendar.

Getting there is part of the fun. A free ferry from behind Amsterdam Central Station takes about fifteen minutes and gives good views of the harbour. The site is open all day and entry is free, though some venues charge. Note that the film museum and the lookout tower in Amsterdam Noord are on a different part of the waterfront, closer to the Buiksloterweg ferry, and not at NDSM. Weather matters, as much of the site is outdoors, so dress for wind.

NDSM suits creative travellers, photographers, families and anyone who wants to see a different side of Amsterdam. A visit takes a couple of hours, and an afternoon with a meal can be longer.