Ledig Erf

Ledig Erf is a small square in the centre of Utrecht, beside the Oudegracht, the old canal that runs through the middle of the city, and the name means empty plot. Such names usually record a piece of ground that was left unbuilt, perhaps after a fire or because of a property dispute, and the little square is a pleasant open space in the middle of tightly packed medieval streets. It is not a monument, and it is best seen as a place to pause: a spot with cafes, seating and a view of the canal, in a part of the city that is full of things to see.

The setting is what makes it worthwhile. The Oudegracht is unusual among Dutch canals because it has two levels of quay, an upper street and a lower wharf, with arched cellars that were once warehouses at the water's edge. The cellars have been turned into cafes, restaurants and shops, and the walkways above lead along the water past gabled buildings, some more than seven hundred years old. From a high point such as a bridge or a square beside the canal, you can see both levels at once and look along the line of houses and boats, with the Dom Tower rising above the roofs, at 112 metres the tallest church tower in the country. The vantage point is one of the pleasures of the place.

The atmosphere is relaxed and sociable. Cafes put out tables and chairs when the weather allows, and people stop for coffee, lunch or a drink in the late afternoon, watching boats and cyclists go by. It is a pedestrian area, open at all times, and there is no charge to be there, so it works well as a resting place on a walk. In summer the canal is busy with boat tours and small craft, and events and concerts on the water sometimes take place nearby.

Utrecht's central attractions are all within reach. The Domkerk, the Janskerk, Museum Catharijneconvent, the Centraal Museum with the Nijntje Museum and Museum Speelklok, a museum of musical clocks and instruments, are within a short walk, and Neude and the Cathedral Square, the Domplein, are part of the old centre. The Utrecht Centraal railway station, the busiest in the country, is a short distance away, and Kasteel de Haar lies outside the city.

The square suits visitors of all kinds who want a break in a lovely setting. Come in the afternoon for the light on the canal, and allow half an hour for a drink and the view.