City canals

Leeuwarden is the capital of Friesland, and its canals are the key to understanding how the city developed. Like many Dutch cities, it grew around a network of waterways that served as trade routes, drainage channels and defensive moats, and the ring of canals around the old centre still follows the line of the medieval defences. Walking or boating along them gives the best introduction to a city that is often overlooked by visitors but offers plenty of interest.

The Frisian capital has a distinctive character. The people speak Frisian, an official language of the Netherlands that is closely related to English, and the city has a strong sense of its own identity. In 2018, Leeuwarden was European Capital of Culture, which brought new life to the centre, with art, festivals and renovation of public spaces. The city is also the starting and finishing point of the Elfstedentocht, the legendary eleven-city ice skating race that is held only when the canals freeze hard enough, which happens rarely.

The canals link the main sights. The Oldehove is a leaning church tower of the sixteenth century that was never finished and began to tilt because of the soft ground, and it is now one of the best-known landmarks of the city, with a viewing platform at the top. The Fries Museum covers the history and art of the province and has displays on Mata Hari, the exotic dancer and alleged spy who was born in Leeuwarden in 1876. The Princessehof Museum of ceramics is housed in a former royal residence. The graphic artist M. C. Escher was also born in the city, in 1898.

On the water, boat trips take passengers along the canals and through the old centre, passing bridges, gabled houses and quiet corners. The route offers a different perspective on the buildings, and the commentary tells the story of the city. On land, charming shopping streets, cafes and the Jacobijnerkerk, an old church, give variety. A historical walk along churches and monasteries is another way to explore.

Other attractions include AquaZoo, a zoo and aquarium with a Frisian theme, and the Frisian Agricultural Museum. The canals suit couples, families and history lovers. Combine a boat trip with a walk through the centre, and check the season, as boat services run mainly in the warmer months.