Charming shopping streets

Leeuwarden is Friesland’s capital, in the north of the Netherlands, and a city with a strong regional identity. It was the European Capital of Culture in 2018, and the title brought new attention to its historic centre, its canals and its distinct language, Frisian, which is spoken alongside Dutch. The shopping streets are a good introduction, because they pass by many of the sights and show daily life at the same time.

Leeuwarden’s retail core is compact and pedestrian-friendly. Popular streets such as Nieuwestad and the Kleine Kerkstraat run past historic gabled houses, and independent shops sit beside chain stores. Many of the smaller shops are run by families, selling Frisian specialities such as sugar bread, local cheeses, tea and biscuits, as well as clothing, books and gifts. Browsing here is slow work, and conversations with shopkeepers can lead to good tips on what to see next.

The Voorstreek is a particularly pretty street, with a canal running down the middle and old merchants' houses on both sides. It has a lot of cafes and restaurants, and it gives a more relaxed pace than the main shopping area. The Oldehove, the famous leaning church tower, rises in the centre; it was never finished and tilts noticeably, and it is the city's best-known landmark. The graphic artist M. C. Escher was born in Leeuwarden.

Bilingual signs in Dutch and Frisian are visible throughout the centre, and you may overhear both languages in the shops. The city's other attractions, including the Fries Museum, the canals and the Grote of Jacobijnerkerk, are all within an easy walk, so a shopping trip can become a day of sightseeing. Markets are held on certain days in the town squares, and these are good places to try local food.

The area suits couples, families and anyone who prefers wandering to formal sightseeing. Shops generally keep standard Dutch hours, with some closing on Sundays or Mondays, so check before planning around them. Leeuwarden can be reached directly by train from Amsterdam and Groningen, and the walk from the station to the shopping streets takes only a few minutes.