Binnendieze river and canal system

The Binnendieze is the network of small rivers and canals that runs through the old centre of 's-Hertogenbosch, usually called Den Bosch, the capital of Noord-Brabant. It takes its name from the Dieze, a river formed where the Dommel and the Aa meet near the city. The Binnendieze is the inner part of that water system, flowing inside the medieval city walls, while the Buitendieze runs outside them. For centuries it supplied water for trades such as tanning, brewing and dyeing and carried away waste, and the city's lanes and houses were built with the waterways as part of their structure.

The unusual thing about the Binnendieze is that large stretches pass under buildings and streets. As the city grew, houses were built over the water, and parts were vaulted over for convenience. In the twentieth century many sections were filled in or covered because they had become polluted and neglected. Later, residents and the city council became aware of the value of what remained, and from the 1970s onward a long programme of restoration reopened sections, cleaned the water and repaired the old walls. Today the system is again a feature of the city rather than a hidden drain.

The best way to see it is on a boat tour. Small open boats, steered by guides, slip along narrow channels, duck beneath low bridges and pass through dark tunnels under houses. The guides explain how the water was used, how the city's defences worked and how restoration came about. Along the way, passengers see rear gardens, old walls, mill remains and the backs of buildings that are seldom visible from the street, which makes it a very different perspective on the city.

Above ground, restored sections can be walked along, with paths beside the water and glimpses of courtyards. The cathedral, the Markt and the Noordbrabants Museum are all close, so a boat trip fits easily into a day in the city. Korte Putstraat is a good place for dinner, and bakeries sell the local speciality, the Bossche bol.

The tour suits families, history lovers and photographers. It takes roughly an hour, and boats run seasonally, with the busiest times in summer and at weekends, so booking ahead is sensible. Wear a jacket, since the tunnels are cool, and watch your head.