Just north of Amsterdam, across the IJ, lies Waterland: a low, wet landscape of meadows, ditches and dikes with a string of historic villages along the old Zuiderzee shore. It is the closest place to the capital where you can see traditional Dutch countryside, and you can reach it by city bus or bicycle in well under an hour. "Hidden" is not quite the right word, though. Some of these villages are among the most visited places in the country. The trick is knowing which is which.
What Waterland Is
Waterland is a peat meadow area between Amsterdam-Noord and the IJsselmeer and Markermeer lakes. The land is below sea level, crossed by water channels and grazed by cows and sheep. The villages grew up as farming and fishing communities on the former Zuiderzee, which was closed off by the Afsluitdijk in 1932. That ended sea fishing and turned the coast into a freshwater lake, but the harbours, wooden houses and dikes remain.
Broek in Waterland: The Closest and Quietest
Broek in Waterland is the nearest of the villages to Amsterdam and the calmest. It is known for its wooden houses, many painted in shades of grey, set along small canals and a lake. There is little to "do" in the tourist sense, and that is the point: walk the lanes, look at the houses and the church, and continue on by bike. Remember that people live here, so keep voices down and stay off private bridges and gardens.
Monnickendam: A Working Harbour Town
Monnickendam is a small historic town with a harbour full of traditional sailing ships and leisure boats, a church tower visible across the polder, and a compact centre of old brick houses. It is busier than Broek on summer weekends but still feels like a real town rather than a showcase. It makes a good lunch stop on a cycling loop and a base for walks along the dike.
Marken: Former Island, Popular Day-Trip Stop
Marken was an island until a causeway connected it to the mainland in 1957. Its wooden houses stand on mounds and posts as protection against flooding, and the harbour and lighthouse at the eastern tip are a pleasant walk from the village. Marken is on most coach tour itineraries, so in the middle of the day in high season expect groups in the harbour area. Arrive early or late, or walk out to the lighthouse to find space. A seasonal passenger ferry links Marken and Volendam across the water, which makes a neat round trip; check current sailing times before relying on it.
Volendam: Busy and Commercial
Volendam is the best known of the Waterland-area villages and the most crowded. Its dike front is lined with shops, fish stalls and photo studios where visitors pose in traditional costume. If you want an authentic quiet village, this is not it. If you want to eat fresh fish by the water and see a lively harbour, it delivers. Weekends and summer afternoons are the busiest; mornings are noticeably calmer.
Edam: Cheese Town with Quiet Streets
Edam, a little further north, is a small town of canals, drawbridges and old merchants' houses, best known for the round cheese that bears its name. It is busier on days when the summer cheese market is held on the Kaasmarkt, a seasonal event run mainly for visitors; check the town's tourism site for current dates. Outside those mornings, Edam's back streets are often surprisingly quiet, and it pairs well with Volendam, which is only a short ride away.
Getting There
- By bus: Regional buses run from Amsterdam Centraal (the bus station on the IJ side of the station) to Broek in Waterland, Monnickendam, Marken, Volendam and Edam. Pay with a contactless bank card or OV-chipkaart. Check the current route numbers in a journey planner such as 9292 before you go, as routes change.
- By bike: Take the free ferry from behind Amsterdam Centraal to Amsterdam-Noord and follow the cycle network north. Broek in Waterland is close enough for a short ride, and a loop through Broek, Monnickendam and Marken makes a full day. The area is flat but exposed, so a headwind can make the return trip slow. Use the numbered junction (knooppunt) signs to plan a route.
- By boat: In summer, the Volendam–Marken ferry is the easiest way to link those two villages without doubling back.
How to avoid the crowds:
- Start early. Coach groups usually reach Volendam and Marken from mid-morning.
- Spend more time in Broek, Monnickendam and the back streets of Edam, and less in Volendam's dike front.
- Visit outside July and August, or on a weekday.
- Cycle between villages. The polder lanes between them are where Waterland is at its quietest.
