Winding cobbled streets

The old centre of Middelburg is best seen on foot, and the narrow cobbled streets are the reason. Middelburg is the capital of the province of Zeeland, on the island of Walcheren, and in the seventeenth century it was one of the richest towns in the Dutch Republic, thanks largely to its role in the overseas trade of the Dutch East India Company. The merchants who profited built tall gabled houses, warehouses and civic buildings, and the lanes between them still follow the medieval pattern of the town.

The centre has a remarkable number of protected monuments, more than a thousand, and much of what you see is the result of careful rebuilding after the German bombing of May 1940, which destroyed a large part of the area around the abbey and the market. The reconstruction followed the old street plan and the style of the lost buildings, so the old town feels coherent even though many of the houses date from the postwar years. That is part of the story to keep in mind when you look at the stonework and the facades.

A walk can start at the Markt, the main square, with its elaborate Gothic town hall. From there, narrow streets lead off in all directions. Reigerstraatje is one of the small lanes worth finding, and Kuiperspoort is a quiet passage lined with old houses. The Vismarkt, once the fish market, is another good spot with an old-world feel. The Kloveniersdoelen, the Vleeshal and the Koepoort are nearby, and the Abbey complex, with the Lange Jan tower, known in English as Tall John, rises over the centre and makes a useful point of orientation.

The streets are not only about monuments. Between the historic buildings you find small boutiques, galleries and cafes, and the pace of the town is relaxed. In summer there are markets on certain days, and terraces fill the squares. Beautifully gabled houses line many of the lanes, so it pays to look up as well as ahead. Cobbles are uneven, so sturdy shoes are a good idea, and the route is not easy for wheelchairs or prams in every part.

A wander through the streets suits photographers, history lovers and anyone who enjoys a slow stroll. Allow at least an hour or two, and preferably more if you want to stop for coffee. Early morning and evening have the best light and the fewest people, and the town is pretty in all seasons.