Well-preserved farmhouses

Zelhem is a village in the Achterhoek, the eastern corner of the province of Gelderland, close to the German border. The region has a character quite unlike the polders of the west. Instead of open, flat fields, the landscape is a patchwork of small fields divided by hedgerows and rows of trees, with woods, meadows and farms hidden among them, and the Dutch call it a coulisse landscape because of the way the planting forms screens and glimpses. In this setting, traditional farmhouses are a main feature.

The typical Achterhoek farm is a long building that combines the living quarters of the family and the stable and barn for the animals and crops under one roof. The roof is large, steep and often thatched in earlier times, though many have since been given tiles, and the walls are timber-framed with brick infill. Inside, the barn has a central threshing floor with a hay loft above and stalls along the sides, so that people and livestock lived under the same roof, and the warmth of the animals helped to heat the house in winter. The front part contained the family rooms, the kitchen and the bedrooms. Many of these farmhouses were built in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, though the type is older, and they stand among their outbuildings, such as a bakehouse, a small barn and sheds.

Because farming has changed, many of the old buildings no longer serve their original purpose. Some are still working farms, while others have been converted into homes, guesthouses, holiday accommodation, galleries or small businesses, which has kept them in use and preserved their appearance. Old farmhouses often have large gardens, orchards and mature trees, and the property boundaries may still be marked by hedges.

The best way to see them is by bicycle or on foot, along the lanes that link the farms. The Achterhoek has a good network of cycle routes, many of them quiet, passing through hamlets and past estates, and the pace is gentle. Walkers may find marked routes that link the farms with the woods and the nearby river valleys. Most of the buildings are private, so they are best admired from the road, and visitors should respect privacy and keep to public paths.

The area suits cyclists, walkers, photographers and anyone interested in rural architecture. Spring brings blossom, summer lush greenery and autumn warm colours. Combine a ride with a stop at a cafe or farm shop. Zelhem is reached by bus from Doetinchem.