Vibrant Harbours

Harlingen is a port on the Wadden Sea coast of Friesland, and for visitors the harbours are the town's best feature. The old centre grew up around several basins, including the Noorderhaven, the Zuiderhaven and the inner harbours, and the quays are lined with historic merchants' houses, gabled warehouses and cafes. Unlike some museum ports, they are still in daily use, so the scene is full of movement: ships come and go, ropes are coiled and sails are hoisted, and conversations in the cafes mix Dutch and Frisian.

The harbours have a long history. In the Golden Age, ships from Harlingen traded with the Baltic, Britain and the Dutch colonies, and the town was a major base for the navy of the province. Warehouses and houses from that period survive, and many have been converted into homes, shops and restaurants. The Hannemahuis, a patrician house of the eighteenth century, now houses a museum that tells the story of the town, with collections of art, local history and decorative objects. The town also has an old tradition of shipbuilding and fishing.

What gives the harbours their special flavour today is the fleet of traditional sailing ships known as the brown fleet. These are historic vessels, mostly old working boats, such as clippers and flat-bottomed barges, restored and converted for passengers, and many are based in Harlingen. They take guests on day trips and multi-day cruises across the Wadden Sea and the IJsselmeer, and their tall masts and rust-coloured sails give the quays a strong period atmosphere. The brown fleet gathers for festivals and races during the year, and the harbours are particularly lively then.

Harlingen is also the departure point for ferries to the Wadden Islands of Vlieland and Terschelling, so the quays are busy with cyclists and travellers heading to the islands, especially in summer. A tourist information office in the town offers maps and walking routes, and guided tours explain the history of the buildings and the harbour. The shops and galleries around the harbours sell local crafts, and seafood restaurants serve fish landed nearby.

The harbours suit families, sailors, photographers and anyone who likes maritime atmosphere. Allow two or three hours to walk around the quays, visit a museum and have a meal. The best light is in the evening, when the sun lights up the old brick on the water, and the town is only twenty minutes by train from Leeuwarden. Check the programme of events if you hope to see sailing ships gather.