Rangers Trail (18.5 km)

The Rangers Trail is an 18.5-kilometre loop in Kootwijkerzand, part of the Veluwe, the largest forested upland in the Netherlands. It is marked with orange signs and was laid out by Staatsbosbeheer, the state forestry service, and it takes hikers through some of the most varied landscapes of the area: the drifting sand dunes of the Kootwijkerzand, wetlands at the Kootwijkerveen and long stretches of woodland. It is a moderately demanding walk, with a number of climbs and descents, and is best undertaken by people with a reasonable level of fitness.

The Kootwijkerzand is the first major attraction. It is one of the largest areas of drifting sand in Western Europe, a landscape that looks almost like a desert in the middle of the country. The sand was set in motion in the Middle Ages when forests were cut and heath was overgrazed, and the wind has been moving it ever since. Today the area is managed so that the sand can drift in some parts, since this open habitat supports rare insects and plants, while other parts are stabilised by planting. The dunes offer long views and a sense of space that is unusual in the Netherlands.

The trail then moves into wetter country. At the Kootwijkerveen, a fen or small bog, the vegetation changes and the paths pass through marshy ground and pools with reeds and birch trees. Birds of the wetland and heath live here, and with luck you may see deer or other wildlife in the early morning. The contrast between dry sand and damp fen shows how varied the landscape of the Veluwe can be over short distances.

The forest sections provide shade and shelter, with pines, oaks and beech. In autumn the colours are rich, and in winter the paths can be misty and quiet. The elevation gain over the whole circuit adds up to a few hundred metres, which is notable in a country known for flatness, and most walkers complete the loop in about five or six hours with breaks. The nearby Radio Kootwijk Cathedral building can be added as a side trip.

Bring plenty of water, snacks, sun protection and sturdy walking shoes, and allow enough daylight. There are few places to buy food on the route, so plan ahead. The trail suits experienced walkers and nature lovers, and the Boswachterij Kootwijk provides maps and information.