Het Kootwijkerzand

Het Kootwijkerzand is the name of the great sand drift in the Veluwe near the village of Kootwijk, and it is the part of the area that most people mean when they talk about the Dutch desert. It is described as the largest active sand drift in Western Europe, a bare, wind-shaped area of dunes that is kept open on purpose, and it is bordered by pine forest that gives the sand a striking frame. The area is open at all hours and free to enter, so it suits both a planned outing and a spontaneous stop.

What makes it special is how strange it feels in the Dutch setting. Walk a few minutes from the car park and the trees give way to a landscape of pale sand, ripples and hollows, with a few scattered pines and a horizon that seems very far away. The sand moves with the wind, so the shapes change from one visit to the next, and in dry, windy weather it can blow across the paths. Signs along the way explain animal footprints in the sand, a good activity for children, since tracks of rabbits, birds and insects can often be found. Lizards, insects and specialised birds live here because bare sand is a habitat that is very rare elsewhere in the country.

A lookout platform gives a panoramic view over the dunes, and it is the best place to be at sunrise or sunset, when the low light brings out the texture of the sand and the long shadows. The entrance area has toilets and a coffee shop, which makes it a convenient starting point, though opening times vary by season. There is a large car park near the entrance, and fees for parking may be higher than at other nature sites in the Veluwe, so check on arrival. The paths are easy to follow, but wheelchair and pushchair access is limited by the soft, sandy ground.

Several marked walking routes start from here, including the loop trails described elsewhere, and the surrounding Boswachterij Kootwijk has more paths through forest and heath. The sand is deep in places, so walking is slower than it looks, and shoes full of sand are part of the experience. In summer the sun can be fierce because there is no shade, and in winter the wind can be cold, so dress for the conditions and bring water.

The area suits families, walkers, photographers and anyone looking for an unusual landscape close to the centre of the country. Allow an hour or two, and consider visiting at the start or end of the day for the best light.