Purmer

Purmerend lies north of Amsterdam, in the Waterland region of North Holland, at the junction of three drained lakes. The Beemster, drained in 1612, the Purmer, drained a few years later, and the Wormer all surround the town, which grew from a fishing village into a market and trade centre for the new polders. The Beemster is now a UNESCO World Heritage site, noted for the regular layout of its fields. The town's museum tells that story, and it is housed in the old town hall on the Kaasmarkt, the cheese market square, which gives the building a link to the traditional trade of the district.

The museum is the main place to understand how Purmerend developed. Displays trace its story from the early days, when people lived by fishing and cutting peat on the shores of the lake, through the draining of the lakes and the arrival of farmers to the age of markets, shipping and industry. Because the area produced cheese, butter and cattle, the weekly markets drew traders from across the region, and the cheese market was a major event. Maps, models, photographs and objects show the changing landscape and explain how the drainage works were carried out with windmills.

The museum also highlights famous people connected with the town. The architect J.J.P. Oud, who became one of the leading figures of modern architecture and worked for the city of Rotterdam, was born in Purmerend, as was his contemporary Mart Stam, whose cantilevered chairs became icons of design. The graphic designer Jac. Jongert, who created striking posters and packaging in the early twentieth century, also came from the town. The presence of three such figures in one small place is a point of local pride, and the museum gives them due attention.

The collection includes decorative arts, among them the Jugendstil ceramics made in Purmerend around the end of the nineteenth century, which form one of the museum's special treasures. Temporary exhibitions add variety, and the building also houses the tourist information desk and a shop with regional products, books and maps for walkers and cyclists. Opening hours vary through the week and holidays, so check before going.

The museum suits history lovers, design fans and families, and a visit takes an hour or so. The surrounding polders are excellent for cycling, with flat routes along the dykes and canals, and the Beemster is a short ride away. Amsterdam is easily reached by bus.