Pavement cafés

Stavoren is one of the oldest towns in Friesland and one of the Eleven Cities of the famous skating tour, though it is now a small harbour village rather than the great trading port it once was. It sits at the south-west corner of the province, where the IJsselmeer meets the end of the Frisian lakes, and its character is shaped by water and sailing. The quayside terraces here are the place to see that character in everyday use.

The town has a legend that explains its reputation. The story of the Vrouwtje van Stavoren, the Lady of Stavoren, tells of a proud and wealthy merchant's widow who ordered a ship captain to bring her the most valuable cargo in the world. When he returned with wheat, she was furious and ordered him to dump it in the harbour. According to the tale, the grain sprouted, blocked the entrance with a sandbank and ruined the town's trade. A small statue of the lady stands at the harbour entrance and looks out over the water.

The cafes themselves are modest, which is part of the appeal. Tables are set along the harbour, with a view of moored yachts, the lock and the comings and goings of boats. Menus usually include coffee, beer, simple lunches and snacks, and many kitchens offer fish, often the local catch or smoked varieties. Cake with a pot of tea is a good late-afternoon option, and the place becomes lively on summer evenings when sailors fill the terraces. In the cooler months only a few remain open, so check before planning around them.

Stavoren has other things to see within an easy stroll. The fishing port, the IJsselmeer beach, houseboats and glamping units, and the monumental pumping station J.L. Hooglandgemaal on the edge of town give variety. A seasonal ferry has linked the town with Enkhuizen across the IJsselmeer, though the timetable should be checked before relying on it. Cyclists passing through on the long-distance routes often stop for a drink and a rest.

The terraces suit couples, cyclists and sailors, and they work equally well for a family afternoon by the water. Light winds and sunshine make the best conditions, but even on a grey day the harbour has a calm, working feel. A visit takes an hour or two, longer if you add a walk along the shore.