Museum Oud Amelisweerd

Museum Oud Amelisweerd, often shortened to MOA, is housed in an eighteenth-century country house on the Amelisweerd estate, a wooded landscape on the eastern edge of Utrecht beside the Kromme Rijn. The house, built in the neoclassical taste of the 1770s, was designed as a summer residence for a wealthy family, and it retains much of its original character. The museum is small in scale but rich in detail, and it offers a more intimate experience than the big city museums.

The best-known feature is the interior decoration. Some rooms are covered in hand-painted wallpapers, including Chinese wallpaper imported in the eighteenth century and decorative Dutch papers from later periods. Chinese wallpaper was a luxury product, painted on paper with birds, flowers and scenes of daily life, and it was shipped to Europe by the trading companies. Seeing it in the room for which it was intended is very different from seeing a fragment in a gallery, and the colours and craftsmanship are remarkable.

Besides the historic rooms, the museum puts on exhibitions of art and design, often with a connection to the house and its setting. The programme changes, so it is worth checking what is on before you go. The combination of old interiors and temporary exhibits makes the visit varied, and the staff are usually well informed about the history of the building and of the families who owned it.

The estate is a pleasure in itself. Amelisweerd is a public landscape of old trees, avenues and meadows, popular with walkers and cyclists from Utrecht. It has also been the subject of a long-running debate about the motorway that runs along its edge, and plans for road widening have often been opposed by local residents and nature lovers. A walk in the woods and along the river makes a natural pair with a visit to the museum, and there is usually a cafe in the grounds for refreshments.

The museum suits art and design lovers, people interested in historic interiors and those who like quieter museums. It is easily reached by bike from Utrecht's centre, and it is best visited on a dry day so you can enjoy the surroundings. Check the opening times and ticket details, as these can vary. The house is also linked to King Louis Napoleon Bonaparte, the brother of Napoleon who ruled the Netherlands from 1806 to 1810 and is said to have stayed at Oud Amelisweerd. Utrecht’s Centraal Museum, in the city, is a good companion visit.