Lek River Promenade

Wijk bij Duurstede is a small town in the province of Utrecht, on the spot where the Rhine divides. Just upstream, the Nederrijn becomes the Lek, which flows west towards Rotterdam, while the old course known as the Kromme Rijn branches off towards Utrecht. The town sits at this junction, and its history and its appearance owe everything to the river. The riverside paths along the Lek give a quiet and scenic walk, with water on one side and the town's historic buildings on the other.

The place has deep history. Close to the present town stood Dorestad, one of the greatest trading centres of early medieval Europe. In the eighth and ninth centuries, merchant ships from the North Sea and the Baltic called here, and goods from the Rhineland, such as wine, pottery and weapons, were traded with Scandinavia and England. It was one of the richest towns in the Frankish realm, and it was raided repeatedly by the Vikings in the ninth century, after which it declined, and the river changed course. Archaeologists have uncovered large parts of it, though little shows above ground. The modern town developed later, and its main historic monument is the castle of Duurstede, a ruined medieval fortress by the river, now largely a park with a surviving tower.

The promenade is a simple walk, and nothing about it is formal. There is no admission fee and no opening hours, since the paths along the river are public and accessible at any time. The route offers views of passing barges and pleasure boats, the dyke with its grazing sheep and the willows on the banks, and it leads to the confluence of the rivers. The Lek is a major shipping route, so the passage of heavy cargo vessels is part of the scene. Cyclists use the dyke road, and the network of cycle paths connects the town with the Kromme Rijn route, along which old estates and farmhouses stand.

The town centre adds to the pleasure. The town hall, the church of Saint John and the narrow lanes around the market are within a short walk, and cafes and restaurants offer places to rest. A windmill stands on the old ramparts, and boat trips on the Lek can be arranged.

The promenade suits walkers, cyclists, history lovers and families. A stroll takes an hour or so. Spring and autumn give the best light, and the dyke can be windy, so bring a jacket.