Delfshaven

Delfshaven is a neighbourhood in the west of Rotterdam that is unlike most of the rest of the city, because it survived the bombing of May 1940 and still has its old harbour, canal houses and gabled warehouses. It began as the port of the town of Delft, which lay inland, and it was given its name in the seventeenth century when a canal was dug to connect Delft with the Maas. Today it is a charming district to stroll through, with cafes, galleries and a lively waterfront.

Delfshaven's place in history comes from the Pilgrim Fathers. In July 1620, a group of English Separatists who had been living in Leiden boarded a ship at Delfshaven to begin the first stage of their voyage to the New World, sailing first to England, where they joined other passengers on the Mayflower before crossing the Atlantic. The Oude Kerk, or Pilgrim Fathers Church, a Gothic building from the fifteenth century, stands beside the harbour, and the pilgrims are said to have prayed there before they left. A plaque and displays recall the event, and visitors from the United States often make the pilgrimage.

The neighbourhood has other claims to fame. The seventeenth-century admiral Piet Hein, who captured a Spanish silver fleet in 1628, was born in Delfshaven, and the area was known for its distilleries, which made jenever, the Dutch spirit from which gin is derived. The windmill called De Distilleerketel, which stands near the harbour, recalls that trade, and a city brewery now carries on the tradition of local production. The historic quay offers views of old ships and houses reflected in the water.

Today the area is lively. Restaurants and cafes line the harbour, boats and stand-up paddleboards can be rented, and small creative businesses have moved into old warehouses. Attractions include a pinball museum and a pedestrian tunnel decorated with lights, and the district has a village-like feel that contrasts with the high-rise centre. Rotterdam is known for its modern architecture, and the contrast between this old harbour and the skyscrapers is striking.

Delfshaven suits history lovers, photographers and anyone who wants a quieter side of Rotterdam. It is easily reached by metro and tram from the centre. Allow a couple of hours, and consider a meal by the water. Check opening times for the church and the museums, since they can be limited.