De Krim

The wild east side of Schiermonnikoog is the part of the island that rewards a walk well away from the village. Visitors should check local maps and the information centre before setting out.

Schiermonnikoog is the smallest of the inhabited Dutch Wadden Islands, about sixteen kilometres long, and almost the whole island is a national park, protected since 1989. It lies between Ameland and the mainland coast of Groningen, and it is reached by ferry from Lauwersoog in about forty-five minutes. It is a place of wide beaches, dunes, salt marshes and mudflats, with one village, and cars are not allowed for visitors, so everything is done on foot or by bicycle. That alone gives the island a calm, unhurried atmosphere that people travel a long way to find.

The landscape is the main attraction. On the North Sea side, a broad beach of fine sand runs the full length of the island, backed by high dunes that are covered with marram grass, sea buckthorn and, in the damp hollows, plants that thrive on the lime-rich sand. On the Wadden Sea side, the salt marshes, known as kwelders, are flooded at spring tides and support a unique community of plants such as sea lavender and glasswort, and huge flocks of geese and waders feed there. To the east, the island narrows into a wild, little visited area where the dunes meet the tidal flats, and walking there is a matter of space, wind and birdsong.

Marked paths, cycle routes and information points guide visitors, and it is important to stay on them, since the vegetation and the breeding birds are sensitive. The national park information centre in the village, Het Baken, offers maps and guided excursions, including walks onto the mudflats at low tide. Seals can sometimes be seen on the sandbanks, and in spring and autumn migrating birds pass through in large numbers. Entry to the park is free, though some activities charge a fee, and weather can change quickly, so bring windproof clothing.

The east side suits walkers, cyclists, birdwatchers and photographers who want a quiet and remote experience. Take water, since there are no facilities away from the village, and check tide times before going onto any tidal area.