De Kerk

Schiermonnikoog is the smallest of the inhabited Dutch Wadden Islands, a strip of sand and dunes about sixteen kilometres long, between the Wadden Sea and the North Sea, east of Ameland. The name means island of the grey monks. In the Middle Ages the land belonged to the Cistercian monks of an abbey in Friesland, whose grey habits gave the island its name, and who farmed it and ran sheep on it. Today nearly the whole island is a national park, a place of dunes, salt marshes, beaches and woods, with a single village on the south-west side where about a thousand people live. Cars are largely banned, and visitors reach the island by ferry from Lauwersoog.

The church, De Kerk, is the main religious building of the village. It is a small Protestant church, built in the plain manner typical of the Wadden Islands, with a modest exterior of brick or plaster, a simple tower or roof turret and an interior that is bright and unadorned. On a small island, the church traditionally served as a meeting place for the whole community, where announcements were made, the sick were prayed for and the rhythm of the year was marked. Many families on the island were sailors or fishermen, and the church had a place in remembering those lost at sea. A church of this kind has an importance in local life that is out of proportion to its size.

The details of the building's history are not well recorded, and it is said to date from the eighteenth century, so it is best to ask locally for the story. Visitors can look at the outside at any time, and the interior is open during services and sometimes by arrangement, so check the notices. The surroundings are as interesting as the church. The village streets are quiet and low-rise, with white-painted houses, gardens and bicycle racks, and the island's visitor centre, Het Baken, explains the national park, its wildlife and the work of its managers.

Beyond the village, the island rewards exploration on foot or by bike. Long beaches face the North Sea, salt marshes known as kwelders stretch along the south, and the dunes and woods hold a rich array of birds and plants. Guided walks lead out onto the mudflats at low tide, and cycling routes run for miles. The lighthouse is one of the landmarks.

The church suits visitors interested in the culture of the islands, and the island as a whole suits walkers, cyclists and nature lovers. A look at the church takes a few minutes, and the island is best enjoyed over a day or more. Check the ferry times, and book accommodation in advance in summer.