Zutphen City Wall Walk

Zutphen is a town on the river IJssel in the east of Gelderland, and it is often called the city of towers because of its skyline of church spires and gate towers. In the Middle Ages it was one of the leading trading towns of the region and a member of the Hanseatic League, with a harbour on the river and a strong set of walls and gates. Of these defences, a good deal remains, and a walk around the line of the old walls gives a good picture of the shape and scale of the town.

The walls have been changed and partly lost, as in most Dutch towns, where fortifications were gradually removed or incorporated into later buildings. In Zutphen, however, the line is easy to follow. Sections of wall, towers and gates survive, and the old moat, the stadsgracht, survives in places as a canal and green strip. The walk can be done in a loop of an hour or so, with paths that are mostly flat and easy. The Berkelpoort, a late medieval gate with a round tower and a pointed roof, is the best-known, and it stands where the road from the east once entered the town. Another landmark is the Drogenapstoren, a tower on the wall with a curious name, and it is a favourite subject for photographs.

Inside the line of the walls, the old town is a maze of narrow lanes with merchants' houses, warehouses and churches. The Walburgiskerk, a great Gothic church, has a famous library, the Librije, a medieval library in which the books are still chained to the desks, one of very few of its kind in the world. The streets near the market square include many fine old gables, and the town is known for its cafes and for the quality of its preserved centre. Gardens, such as the botanical garden and the parks along the moat, add green space, and the river promenade provides views over the IJssel and the meadows beyond.

The walk is free, with no opening hours, since it follows public paths, and it can be done at any time of day. The light in the late afternoon is especially good for the brickwork. Several museums, including a regional museum in a historic building, offer further interest, and Hof van Twickel and other courtyards are tucked among the streets.

The walk suits history lovers, photographers and families, and it combines well with a visit to the church and the market square. Zutphen is reached by train from Arnhem, Deventer and Apeldoorn.