Sint-Janskerk (Gouda)

The Sint-Janskerk, or Church of Saint John, is the great landmark of Gouda, the cheese town in South Holland. It is the longest church in the Netherlands, measuring about a hundred and twenty-three metres from end to end, and it is famous across the country for its stained glass. Standing near the market square, with the Gothic town hall as its neighbour, it forms part of one of the finest ensembles of historic buildings in the Dutch lowlands. Even those who do not usually visit churches tend to be impressed by the scale of the interior.

The church is dedicated to Saint John the Baptist, and a church has stood on the site since the thirteenth century. The present building is largely the result of rebuilding after a fire that followed a lightning strike in 1552, which destroyed the old structure. The reconstruction took place in the Gothic style during a time of religious tension, and the church passed into Protestant hands in 1573, a few years after the start of the Dutch revolt. The long, narrow plan, with its repeated bays, gives the interior a feeling of depth that draws the eye towards the choir.

The stained glass windows are the main attraction. The Goudse Glazen, or Gouda Windows, were made between the middle of the sixteenth century and the early seventeenth, and they are among the most important examples of stained glass in the Netherlands. Many are the work of the brothers Dirck and Wouter Crabeth, who produced large biblical scenes and historical subjects in rich colours. Some windows were donated by cities, nobles and even the Spanish king Philip II, which shows how widely admired the project was. The windows survived the iconoclasm and later upheavals, in part because the church was spared the worst, and today they glow with light when the sun shines through.

The church holds regular concerts, including organ recitals, and the acoustics suit its long nave. Information and audio guides in several languages explain the windows, and tickets can be bought individually or in combination with other sights. Opening hours vary between summer and winter, so it is worth checking in advance, and the church closes on Sundays for services.

Gouda has plenty to offer beyond the church. The cheese market on the Markt takes place on summer mornings, the town hall is one of the oldest Gothic civic buildings in the country, and the old canals and the weigh house are close. The church suits art lovers, history fans and anyone who enjoys beautiful light, and it combines well with a stroll around the old centre.