Old Town

Amersfoort is a city in the province of Utrecht whose medieval centre survives in an unusually complete form. It received city rights in the middle of the thirteenth century and grew into a prosperous trading and weaving town, protected by two rings of walls and a moat. Much of that structure can still be traced today in the shape of the streets and in the gates and water channels that survive. The old town is compact, pedestrian-friendly and full of corners that reward a slow walk, which makes it one of the most attractive historic centres in the country.

The gates are the highlights. The Koppelpoort, from the early fifteenth century, is a double gate that combines a land gate with a water gate in one structure, so that the walls and the river Eem and its canal meet in a single building. It is the best-known symbol of the city and a favourite subject for photographers, especially in the evening light. The Monnikendam, a water gate on the outer wall, stands among trees and gardens and has a quieter, almost romantic character, while the Kamperbinnenpoort, an older gate on the inner ring, recalls the first defences of the town.

At the centre rises the Onze Lieve Vrouwetoren, the Tower of Our Lady, a tall, slender tower that dominates the skyline and is sometimes known as Lange Jan. It is among the tallest church towers in the country, and visitors can climb it to look out over the old town and the surrounding woods and fields. At its foot, the Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk, the church of Our Lady, was largely destroyed by an explosion in 1787, which is why the tower now stands apart from the nave. Nearby, a square called the Hof has a large boulder, the Amersfoortse Kei, an erratic left by the ice age, that was hauled into the town in the seventeenth century and became a local emblem.

The streets around include the Muurhuizen, the houses built along the line of the old wall, small museums, independent shops and cafes. Mondriaan was born in the town, and a house dedicated to him gives information about his early life, while Museum Flehite tells the story of the area. The Hof square and the canals are lively, with terraces in summer and markets on certain days.

The old town suits architecture lovers, history fans and families, and a walk around the main sights takes two or three hours. Amersfoort is only a short train ride from Utrecht and Amsterdam, and the walk is best enjoyed in the late afternoon.