Kerkplein (Church Square)

The Kerkplein, or Church Square, is the central open space of Naarden, a small town east of Amsterdam that is famous for its star-shaped fortifications. The square is dominated by the Grote Kerk, also known as the Sint-Vituskerk, a large Gothic church that is the town's best-known building. In the shelter of the old walls, the square is a quiet place with trees, benches and old houses, and it gives a feeling of the calm that settled over the town after a violent past.

Naarden's history is important to understand the square. In 1572, during the Dutch revolt against Spain, Spanish troops captured the town and massacred many of its people, and the event was long remembered as an atrocity. The church was damaged, and the town was later rebuilt and fortified. The present church dates in large part from the late Middle Ages and the sixteenth century, and its tall tower, with its characteristic spire, rises above the roofs.

The interior of the church is remarkable. Its wooden barrel vault is covered with painted scenes from the Bible, applied in the early sixteenth century, which is rare in the Netherlands, since most such decoration was lost or whitewashed in the Reformation. The paintings, in rich colour, show stories from the Old and New Testaments, and visitors who look up are rewarded with a vivid picture gallery. The church is also known for its acoustics and its tradition of music, and each spring the Naarden Passion, a performance of Bach's Saint Matthew Passion, is held here and attracts audiences from across the country.

The square lies within the walls, and the other sights of the town are close by. The Town Hall, with its stepped gable, stands on the Markt, the Vestingmuseum tells the story of the fortress, and the Comenius Museum honours the Czech educator who is buried in Naarden. A walk along the ramparts shows the star shape of the defences, and the moats are home to ducks and swans.

The square suits visitors who want a calm moment, and the church is open to visitors at certain times, usually in the afternoon in the season. Check the schedule, as it may be closed for services and rehearsals. Combine it with a stroll around the town and a coffee at a cafe on the square.