Grote Kerk (St. Stephen's Church)

The Grote Kerk in Hoorn is a large church on the Kerkplein, in the old centre of this West Frisian town on the former Zuiderzee, and its history is tied to the town's golden age. Hoorn was one of the main ports of the Dutch East India Company, and the wealth that came from the trade paid for the fine merchants' houses that still line its harbour and streets. The church, a late medieval building, is among the oldest and largest in the area, though the practical details of visiting it are less straightforward than one might expect.

A note of caution is useful. Reports from visitors indicate that the church is often closed and may appear locked and barred, and that the square around it can look unprepossessing, with market activity and newer buildings crowding in. In practice, the church is used for events, exhibitions and markets, and it opens at set times. Before travelling specially to see the interior, check the current opening hours with the Hoorn tourist office or the church's own website. The exterior and the square can be seen at any time.

Hoorn itself is well worth a visit. Its name is associated with a famous geographical feature: in 1616, the navigators Willem Schouten and Jacob Le Maire, sailing from Hoorn, rounded the southern tip of South America and named it Cape Horn in honour of their home town. The old harbour is lined with historic buildings, and the Rode Steen, the main square, is dominated by the Waag, or Weighing House, and the Westfries Museum, a splendid building in the Dutch Renaissance style with a richly decorated facade. A statue of Jan Pieterszoon Coen, the East India Company governor-general who was born in the town, stands on the square and is now the subject of debate about colonial history.

The town offers other attractions. The island of Oostereiland, a quiet corner with small houses and a rural air, can be reached by a short walk or boat ride, and the steam train from Hoorn to Medemblik runs in summer. The Hoornse Vaart swimming pool, the Drie Hoorns restaurant and the Klokhuis, a cultural venue, are also on the list.

The church suits visitors interested in architecture and the history of Hoorn, though they should plan carefully. A stroll through the old town and the harbour will reveal the character of the town, and the evening light on the quays is particularly attractive.