Grote Kerk (St. Nicholas Church)

Marken is a small village in North Holland that for centuries was an island in the Zuiderzee, and its character remains that of an isolated and close-knit community. In 1957 a causeway was built to connect it with the mainland, and the old sea became the Markermeer, but the houses, the harbour and the way of life carry the memory of the island. The village stands on mounds, called terpen, raised above the flood level, and its wooden houses, painted dark green with white trim, stand on piles so that water can pass beneath them. Traditional costume, with striped skirts and distinctive caps, was worn here long after other places abandoned it.

The Grote Kerk, the great church of Marken, belongs to this old community. Details of its construction and history are not easy to confirm, so it is best to treat what follows as a picture of what such a church means in a place like Marken. For an island population cut off by water, the church was the centre of civic and religious life. It stood on the highest ground, offered shelter in storms and floods, kept the records of births, marriages and deaths and brought the community together on Sundays. Protestant churches in this region are plain by design, with white walls, wooden pews, a pulpit in the middle and little decoration, and the effect is of quiet and light. Small concerts, often of organ or choral music, are held in some, and the acoustics can be very good.

Visitors are welcome to look at the church when it is open, though it is a place of worship, so visitors are asked to be quiet and respectful, especially during services. Opening times vary, and in some seasons the church is open only on certain days, so it is wise to check at the village information point.

Marken has plenty of other things to see. A walk along the harbour leads to the lighthouse known as the Paard van Marken, the Horse of Marken, which stands on the shore at the edge of the village and is a familiar landmark. The Openluchtmuseum and the Maritime Museum explain local life and history, and shops along the main street sell souvenirs and local products such as smoked fish. Cafes and restaurants serve fish and pancakes.

The church suits history lovers, photographers and anyone who enjoys small, quiet places. A visit takes half an hour, and the village can be explored in a couple of hours. Marken is reached by bus from Amsterdam via Monnickendam.