Edam Windmills

Edam is a small town in North Holland, on the former Zuiderzee, and it lies in a landscape that was shaped by windmills. The polders around it, among them the Zeevang and the lands between Edam and Purmerend, were reclaimed from lakes and marshes, and for centuries it was windmills that kept them dry. Rows of mills stood along the ditches, each lifting the water a short distance into a higher channel, in chains that carried it step by step to the sea. A single mill could lift a large volume of water in a day, and a polder needed several of them to work together. The mills were also used for other industries, among them sawing timber, grinding grain and processing oil seeds.

In the twentieth century, steam and then electric pumping stations took over the drainage, and most of the old mills were demolished or fell into ruin. Some, however, were saved by enthusiasts and local organisations, and a number around Edam survive, either restored to working order or preserved as monuments. The details of which mills are open and what condition they are in change from year to year, so it is best to check locally. They are scattered through the town and the surrounding countryside, with some standing on the edge of the canals where they form a classic composition with the water, the bridges and the brick houses.

Seeing a windmill in the landscape is a pleasure in itself. The shape of the body, which may be a tall brick tower or an octagonal wooden frame, the great sails on their axle and the little cap turning to the wind are among the iconic images of the Netherlands. When the sails turn, they do so with a slow, steady swish, and on windy days the effect is soothing. A mill with its sails in a particular position carried a message, as millers used the angle of the sails to signal celebrations or mourning to the village.

The mills are best seen on foot or by bicycle. The town of Edam has a compact centre with canals and picturesque bridges, among them the Kwakelbrug, a hump-backed drawbridge, and the paths along the water lead to views of mills on the edge of town. Further out, the polder roads and the dykes offer long, flat rides past farms, cattle and mills. Viewing from the outside costs nothing, and some mills may open for visits at specific times.

The mills complement the other attractions of Edam, which include the cheese market in summer, the cheese museum and the old weigh house. They suit photographers, cyclists and anyone interested in water management. A walk takes an hour. Edam is reached by bus from Amsterdam.