Cute shops

Oudewater is a small town in the province of Utrecht, close to the border with South Holland, and it is best known for its Witch Museum. Beyond that single famous sight, the town has a compact historic centre where small independent shops are tucked into old buildings along narrow streets and canals. Browsing the shops is less a single attraction than a pleasant way to spend a relaxed afternoon after seeing the main sights.

The town grew along the Hollandse IJssel river in the Middle Ages and had a reputation for rope making and for its cloth trade. It was also the birthplace of Jacobus Arminius, the theologian whose ideas on predestination caused a major religious dispute in the Dutch Republic. The streets still have the character of a small trading town, with gables, brick facades and a quiet, village-like atmosphere. In such a setting, a boutique or craft shop sits comfortably in a former merchant's house.

Shops in a town like this tend to specialise in gifts, home decoration, local food and handmade products. You might find ceramics, textiles, books, cheese and sweets, along with the odd antique or vintage dealer. Dutch small towns often have a Saturday market and a few cafes with terraces, and the combination of shopping and coffee is part of the pleasure. Prices and opening times vary from shop to shop, and some close on Mondays, so check before making a special trip.

The obvious companion visit is the Witch Museum, officially Museum De Heksenwaag, located in the old weighing house, where people accused of witchcraft were once tested. Oudewater makes a good stop on a drive or cycle ride between Gouda, Utrecht and Woerden, and the surrounding countryside of polders and dikes is pleasant to explore.

This stop suits couples, friends and anyone who likes to wander without a fixed plan. Come on a dry day, bring a bag for souvenirs and allow time for lunch. The town is small enough to see in a couple of hours, which makes it easy to combine with other places nearby. Oudewater’s size means you can easily see everything on foot, and Typical Dutch hospitality, from friendly shopkeepers to a good slice of apple pie in a cafe, makes the visit memorable. If you are travelling with children, the witch story keeps younger visitors entertained between shops, and there is usually a playground or green space within a few minutes.